For most cable TV installations, the best coax for cable TV is 75-ohm RG6 with a solid copper-clad steel center conductor, a quad-shield construction where interference is a concern, and properly fitted compression connectors.
Choose RG6 for nearly all new runs, especially long ones or installations carrying broadband alongside TV. RG59 can work for a short, existing run, but its thinner conductor generally causes more signal loss and leaves less margin for long cable routes. The right choice also depends on the cable’s length, the path it must follow, and the quality of its connectors—not just the shielding label.
RG6 vs. RG59: the practical difference
Both are 75-ohm coaxial cable types commonly associated with video and cable service. RG6 is thicker, typically about 6.9 mm (0.27 in) in outside diameter, and is designed for lower attenuation at the higher frequencies used by modern cable systems. RG59 is typically about 6.1 mm (0.24 in) and is more flexible, but its higher loss makes it a poor default for new cable TV wiring.
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| Feature | RG6 | RG59 |
|---|---|---|
| Typical outside diameter | About 6.9 mm (0.27 in) | About 6.1 mm (0.24 in) |
| Typical center conductor | About 18 AWG, often copper-clad steel | Often about 20 AWG, construction varies |
| Signal-loss example at 100 MHz* | About 1.5–2 dB per 100 ft | About 2–3 dB per 100 ft |
| Signal-loss example at 1 GHz* | About 6–7 dB per 100 ft | About 9–12 dB per 100 ft |
| Best fit | New runs, longer routes, TV and broadband | Short legacy runs where replacement is impractical |
*Illustrative ranges, not guaranteed specifications. Attenuation varies by cable design, temperature, frequency, and manufacturer; check the cable’s datasheet for the exact values.
If you are replacing a damaged cable or pulling a new one, choose RG6 unless a device or installation has a specific requirement for another type. RG59’s smaller size can be useful in a tight, short route, but it is not a worthwhile trade if the run is long or the signal is already marginal.
Choose the right cable for your installation
| Situation | Practical pick | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Short indoor run to one TV | Dual- or tri-shield RG6 | Good balance of flexibility, loss, and cost |
| Long run, several splitters, or weak incoming signal | Low-loss RG6 with published attenuation figures | Each avoided decibel helps preserve signal margin |
| Route near electrical equipment or sources of interference | Quad-shield RG6, correctly terminated | Extra shielding can improve rejection of external interference |
| Outdoor or underground section | RG6 specifically rated for the exposure and installation method | Jacket and moisture protection matter as much as shielding |
| Existing, very short RG59 run | Keep it only if the signal is reliable and the cable is undamaged | A working short run may not justify replacement |
Shielding: match it to the environment
Coax shielding typically combines a foil layer with braided metal. Dual-shield cable commonly has foil and one braid; tri-shield adds another shielding layer, and quad-shield typically uses two foils and two braids. More layers can help resist ingress, but shielding alone does not guarantee a better result. The quality and coverage of the braid, the cable’s electrical specifications, and the condition of the connectors all matter.
For a typical indoor run, good-quality dual- or tri-shield RG6 is often sufficient. Quad-shield is a sensible choice where the cable runs near sources of radio-frequency interference or where local installation requirements call for it. It is thicker and stiffer, so confirm that your connectors and tools are designed for that specific cable. Don’t buy an outdoor or burial-rated cable just for its shielding: the jacket rating is a separate specification.
Length and signal loss: calculate the whole path
Signal loss increases with cable length and frequency. Splitters and connectors add loss too, so a run’s total is more than the figure printed for the cable. As a rough example, suppose a 100-foot RG6 cable loses 6.5 dB at a frequency of interest. A 50-foot section of the same cable would lose about half as much—roughly 3.25 dB—before accounting for connectors or splitters. A two-way splitter may add several more decibels, depending on its design.
This arithmetic is useful for comparing routes, but it cannot tell you whether a particular signal will work: the incoming level and equipment requirements matter. Avoid unnecessary length, but do not pull the cable so tight that it strains the connectors or violates the cable’s bend limits. When planning a route, include enough slack for service without leaving a large, tangled coil.
Bend radius and installation
Coax has a minimum bend radius specified by its manufacturer; there is no single safe measurement for every RG6 cable. Follow the datasheet, and make broad, smooth turns rather than sharp corners or kinks. Crushing the cable can deform its dielectric and alter its impedance, causing reflections or intermittent problems even if the outer jacket looks intact. Use gradual bends around corners, avoid staples that pinch the jacket, and keep the cable away from sharp edges.
Connectors are part of the signal path
A well-made cable can still perform poorly with a loose, mismatched, or badly installed connector. For fixed installations, choose F-type compression connectors specified for the exact cable diameter and shield construction. Compression connections are generally more secure than inexpensive twist-on types. A connector that is too small can damage the braid; one that is too large may not grip firmly or seal properly.
- Use a coax stripper and compression tool compatible with the cable and connector.
- Keep braid strands from touching the center conductor, and avoid nicking the conductor during stripping.
- Seat the connector fully and check that the center conductor projects as specified by the connector maker.
- For outdoor connections, use weather-rated fittings and appropriate sealing to keep moisture out.
- Replace corroded connectors and damaged cable rather than repeatedly tightening or bending them.
In many installations, the connector or cable end wears out before the cable’s internal conductors do. Moisture, corrosion, a loose wall plate, repeated flexing, and tight bends are common causes of trouble. If reception becomes intermittent, inspect accessible connections and the cable jacket before adding an amplifier; an amplifier cannot repair a poor connection and may worsen an already excessive signal level.
What to buy
For a general-purpose purchase, look for 75-ohm RG6 with a published attenuation specification, a jacket suited to the route, and connectors explicitly matched to its diameter and shielding. Choose quad-shield when the installation environment justifies the added bulk; otherwise, a reputable dual- or tri-shield RG6 cable is often the more manageable option. Buy a pre-terminated cable for a simple run only if its length and connector type fit the job. For custom routes, bulk cable and correctly matched compression connectors provide more flexibility.
Before buying, measure the route, identify whether any section is outdoors or buried, count splitters, and check whether the run must pass through tight spaces. Those details will usually matter more than a “premium” label. For most homes, RG6 is the safe default; the best specific cable is the one with the right rating and connector fit, installed without kinks or unnecessary losses.
